Thursday, July 10, 2014

Kenting's Second Chance

I’ve officially been kicked out of my state of denial, my replacement is here in Taiwan.  My students have started finding out about my upcoming departure date (I haven’t had the heard to personally tell most of them).  It has been very strange for me to see their reactions, a lot of the kids are genuinely sad.  I know, people who haven’t been in a similar situation will say “of course they are sad, you have been their teacher for two years!” but buxiban students are used to seeing teachers leave.   It is normal to change teachers fairly regularly, in fact, one of the older classes counted having 10 teachers in their last 4 years, can you imagine that? 
I am not the only teacher leaving the company, this is a major over-turn season for my franchise, with about half of the staff members from the 6 schools leaving in the span of a month.  On Friday, most of us went to Taichung to a “goodbye” dinner for the 2nd-longest-term employee. Usually getting to Taichung is an easy process, but all the chips were stacked against me that night.  My co-worker and I left the school late (which is an unfortunate, but common occurrence for us) and began to scoot back to Changhua, when, I got a flat tire.  We pushed the scooter back to the school to call a repair shop, but they were all closed, so we called for a taxi to take us to the train station, but the temperamental driver drove off before we could get in.  We called for another taxi, and it took over 20 minutes to arrive, causing us to miss the last train to Taichung, and forcing us to spend way too much on a taxi ride into the city.  Still, the night was worth it.  We started at a BBQ and seafood restaurant, and ended up in a karaoke gay bar until the sun came up.
The nice thing about staying out so late, is that it made my next day’s travel times work better.  Still making the most of my last few weeks, I decided to revisit the city I had previously declared “my least favorite city in Taiwan”.  As you may recall, I went to Kenting for Tomb Sweeping weekend well over a year ago, and despite the great company, I considered the trip to be terrible.  It was raining, I didn’t have any money, I had lost my graduation ring, and I just couldn’t bring myself to be in a good mood.  Still, I told myself it was unfair to let those memories taint what is supposed to be one of the nicest vacation spots in Taiwan.
My co-worker and I boarded the train and spent the next few hours trying to make up for lost sleep (which didn’t work very well).  We arrived in Kaosiung in the late morning, and caught a bus to Kenting around noon (where I got the news of one of my best friend’s engagements!).  In total, the travel time to Kenting took around 7 hours (with wait times).  I still don’t know if I would say the travel time is worth the destination.  Perhaps if you have a car, or perhaps if you live in the south, but for someone coming from Changhua the travel is too much of a hassle (especially during a normal weekend).  Immediately upon arrival we rented a scooter so we could avoid taxi fees.  Tourist city that it is, the streets have plenty of rental stalls (not even shops, just vendors on the market streets with a handful of scooters), and licenses are completely unnecessary for obtaining a scooter.  After a quick lunch, we went off in search of a hotel/hostel/ anything with a bed, which proved to be more difficult that I expected, but not impossible.  We skipped from one place to the next, quickly asking for a room, being rejected, asking for directions to the next hotel, until we ended up a practically deserted “resort” in the nearby city.  Bags ditched, we got back on the scooter and started our sightseeing at “sail rock”.  Sail rock is meant to look like the sail of a ship coming out of the water, or the head of Richard Nixon, but I just thought it looked like a large rock in the water.  Still, I skipped across the jagged beach until I was as close to the rock as possible without going in the water, before leaving the beach.  
This is "sail rock", or as I like to call it, the rock that looks like a rock...
The goal of the evening was to make it to Eluanbi lighthouse just before sunset, and we managed to be in the area, and see the top of the light house by that time, but could not figure out how to access it.  Still, the nearby signpost alerted us to “southernmost point of Taiwan”, so we followed the trails down to the water’s edge.  The point is marked by a strange, sail-like marker and does not provide the stunning views that other parts of Kenting are known for, but there is still something rewarding about knowing you have traveled “to the end of the country”.  
The southern-most point of Taiwan.
It isn’t a trip to Kenting without spending some time of the beach, so we went to South Bay only to discover that all the beach-goers had packed up and left.  Sure it was after sunset, but with the swarms of people we had previously seen occupying the area, I was surprised that no one was around to wade or lounge in the sand.  I found the beach very relaxing (though I had no urge to swim), and I was surprised to find that I could walk quite into the shallow waters without finding a drop-off in the water.  As the day drew to a close we wandered back to the busy streets of the city, which turn into a night market by the early afternoon, to find dinner before getting a much deserved night’s sleep.
The next day I was excited to discover how close we were to the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium, which has been on my “To Do” list, so I dragged my friend along (though I didn’t manage to drag him past the café at the museum’s entrance) and saw some animals.  The museum was much more of an aquarium than a museum, which kept me more entertained.  The bulk of the exhibits were divided into three main sections: Coral Reefs, Waters of Taiwan, and Waters of the World.  The design of each section was very creative, for example, the coral reefs section demonstrated how sunken ships become inhabited by sea-life and why certain animals are more drawn to different areas of the boat.  As you walk through the underwater tunnels, you see the sunken ship in the distance, and when you leave the tunnels you are surprised to find you are “in the ship” with the floors textured and the lighting limited to further portray that.  The section ended with a large tank for two Beluga whales to play around in.  The Waters of Taiwan section was designed in a very typical aquarium style (reminding my of the aquariums at my local zoo in Minnesota), and nicely represented the country’s aquatic life.  It included a hands-on tank where people could feel some of the anemones, snails, and starfish that can be found around the shores, and several large fish tanks where I caught a feeding show.  A short distance away from the main building is the Waters of the World exhibit, which I imagine is most visitors favorite part.  The layout centered around a large kelp forest and took guests “through polar waters” to see penguins, puffins, and seals.  It also featured a virtual “deep water” display that walked people through the depths of the ocean using projections that I imagine could terrify small children.  Though I was intending on racing through the museum, it still took me two hours to complete everything (without reading all of the signs), so it easily could have been a day trip. 
Who doesn't love penguins?
Jellyfish!
Look at that playful Beluga Whale!
Slightly more successful than the previous day, we got back to the Eluanbi lighthouse in the early afternoon and actually found the entrance this time.  Essentially ordered to build the lighthouse because of the number of sunken ships off the southern tip of the island, Eluanbi was built in the late 1800s.  It is one of the few armed lighthouses in existence, equipped with a trench and lookouts to defend against local aboriginals.  Now the lighthouse is known as the “Light of East Asia”.  The area surrounding the lighthouse was absolutely gorgeous, which perfect palm trees and an ocean view in most directions, but the lighthouse itself is a little underwhelming.  With time limited, we had to pick whether to walk the beach trails from the lighthouse or go to the National Forest Recreation Area, we chose the later and found ourselves on a twisting mountain round.  We reached the park and paid our entrance fee (which was the theme of the weekend, everything in Kenting cost money) to enter one of the top botanical gardens in the world.  The forest is believed to have formerly been underwater, and even now it is only about 150 above sea-level.  The whole area is layered with rare, tropical plants, and a few unexpected animals (monkey, lizards, and a lot of crabs).  The trails took about two hours for us to complete our full circuit.  Spotted along the path were quite a few naturally formed tourist attractions.  I was most interested in the stalagmite/stalagtite caves and the banyan trees.
Making friends in the "Fairy Cave", stalagtites everywhere!
Finally, accepting the trouble we would be in if we stayed any later, we returned our scooter (already three hours late) and began the bus ride, then high-speed train ride back to Changhua, arriving just before midnight.  Again, I am impressed by how much I can accomplish in a 48-hour period, and I will give this trip credit, it did change my impression of Kenting.  While I still think it is a pain to get to, and I find the crowds and "Spring Break" atmosphere unnecessary, I found a lot of good things to outweigh the cons.  It was a good weekend.

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